Xinomavro – putting Greek reds back on the international stage

Xinomavro (ksee-no-mav-ro) is a red grape predominantly from Naoussa in Macedonia, northern Greece. It is grown in other parts of Greece and blended with other grapes, but if a bottle carries the name ‘Naoussa’ on the label, it must be 100% Xinomavro.

The word means ‘acid black’, which is a bit harsh, and seriously undersells the quality of the wine it produces. It is the only grape planted in the region, which was given appellation status in 1971. Farmers have been growing vines here for more than a thousand years, and yet Xinomavro is a relative newcomer on the international market. Greek wine hasn’t had much of a reputation in the UK – despite it being one of the oldest wine producing countries in the world – but that’s starting to change. (For more info on Greek wines, see a summary of the ones we tried at Greek wine club a couple of years ago.)

It’s a survivor. The people of Naoussa protected its future by negotiating the right to keep growing vines under the rule of the Muslim Ottoman Empire, when many Greek regions had to stop producing wines.

And what a grape to protect! Xinomavro is susceptible to just about everything. By the time the grapes are ripe, their stalks are already snapping. They’re prone to fungal infections, they’re full of seeds, they ripen at different times, they’re different sizes and colours.

A dry wine, high in tannins

The wine they produce is dry and high in tannins. Xinomavro loses its colour as it ages, and it ages well. This Chateau Pegasus (a fabulous birthday present from a friend) is a brick red colour reminiscent of a Nebbiolo. It smelt a bit herby, but tasted amazing, with a burst of dark fruits, and a slight taste of olives and sun-dried tomatoes, which is typical of the grape. (I hate tomatoes, but loved the wine anyway.) I also got hints of wood, spice and leather. We decanted it for a couple of hours which took any edge off the wine. It was great with fillet steak.

It’s definitely a wine to remember and worth buying if you see it. Chateau Pegasus 1999 is available from Bottle Apostle for £23.40.